I'm back with more! As we enter a new year, I've realized nothing will ever top my love of animalics. To me this is the peak of femininity--not florals or gourmands, but the raw sex appeal of this perfume category embodies every thing I want to be. And this time I'm upping the ante. We're moving away from softer musks and honey notes, instead we're going full blown sweaty and skanky with cumin, castoreum and civet. These are difficult and they're supposed to be. So to make things more interesting we're gonna explore older, vintage animalics versus newer animalics and see how they differ and compare.
Vintage animalics are notable for their use of animal products. The practice has been thankfully discontinued but I can't lie and say I don't smell the difference. They were richer, dirtier and overall more potent. Therefore if you want the full experience i recommend Ebay, Facebook Marketplace, Vinted and estate sales for older bottles.
To start, we're rummaging around your Grandma's closet to meet some of these Old Heauxs.
(1932) The oldest on the list, Tabu was beloved by old Hollyword stars for its sultry, spicy ultra-feminine scent. Crafted by perfumer Jean Carles, he was reportedly given the scandalous instructions to make a perfume for "whores" and that he did! It's lush and rich, projecting far and making an appearence before you step into the room. A favorite of Dorothy Dandridge it's no surprise this was favored by many a screen siren. However I suggest you look on Ebay for vintage versions as they're easy to come by and aren't too expensive. The new reformulations just don't cut it!
(1944) Femme Rochas is next, this scent was famously worn by Mae West and its shapely bottle matches her figure perfectly. The peach mimics soft, warm skin and its spiciness adds depth and sensuality. A perfume that makes you want to wear nothing else. While vintage bottles are best, the modern reformulations are also lovely.
(1944) Another 40s creation, Bandit isn't as favored as Fracas (notably worn by stars like Madonna) as it's more androgynous, edgy and quite frankly tough. Perfect for Marlene Dietrich who was known for her transgressive roles and star power. Bandit is a vetiver forward fragrance with a rich leather and civet drydown. This isn't for the frivolous type. If you wear this you're on top.
(1962) Bal à Versailles is extremely animalic. Deep, spicy and resinous it's a highly polarizing scent. The powdery notes are either cloying or comforting, and this is one where all reformulations are pretty good, but there's enough differences where some prefer one over the others. As vintage as it gets and not for the faint of heart.
As we say goodbye to these jezebels, we will make our way down to meet some young hussies. They may wear faux fur instead of a real mink but don't count them out. They're as sensual as their foremothers and just as daring, even if the seduce with a bit more coy flirtation over a vulgar innuendo.
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