My Skin but Nothing - 'Clean' smelling perfumes and the allure of conformity

 Nowadays it seems like everyone is afraid to take up space. From loudly defending the right to be like everyone else to videos of influencers in the same white-beige uniform, it's like there's a war on individuality. And this isn't about people who share common ground, no this is about those who flood someone's comments asking where they got their straight leg jeans from so they can have their exact pair. Proclaiming to be just like other girls has shifted from a sense of camaraderie amongst young women, pushing back against misogynistic mocking to a rallying cry for conformity. If you don't like the same music, same clothes, same perfume and same colors as this narrow definition of a "girl" well now you'll be cast aside and looked down upon.

I'm not the first to say that this is a symbol of a rise of fascism. Tiktok's like this give an insight to something everyone is noticing, the masses are becoming more homogenous than ever, which makes them easier to control.

You may be wondering what that has to do with perfume?

Well, quite a bit actually!

Once upon a time "skin scents" were just perfumes without large projection. They were intimate, sat close to skin, but they weren't necessarily soft. A spicy or*ental (outdated term, but more accurately describes what I'm thinking of more than 'amber') could settle into a skin scent before long. But now, skin scents are used to describe ambroxan heavy, barely there perfumes.

If you have no idea what an ambroxan heavy perfume is, look no further than Glossier 'You', the shining star of this scent category. Glossier 'You' rose in popularity during the 2020 pandemic (although the pandemic is very much still happening), alongside the rise of "clean girl" and it makes sense. During a time filled with sickness, people were looking to be almost sterilized, their visual appearance a marker of clean health as anxieties rose. So it's no wonder a perfume that smells like nothing took the girls by storm. There was nothing messy about it, it was reminiscent of clean, washed skin. Not soapy however, that's a different category that holds perfumes such as Replica's 'Bubble Bath'.

The popularity of 'my skin but nothing' perfumes have only increased. Molecule 01, JHAG Not a Perfume, the Glossier 'You' flankers. All marketing themselves as smelling different on every body and "enhancing pheromones" but there's a problem.

They all smell the same.

And not in the traditional designer perfumes all being a vague fruity-floral-amber mess but in that the marketing is only telling half the story. Sure they smell different to an extent as everyone's skin brings out different aspects but for the most part they smell of the same musky-ambery nothingness. Theres a falsity to its promises. 'Buy this perfume that smells like nothing and you'll be a unique individual with little effort.' It's blandness is a comfort in a way, as people can pretend to be unique as they only make a whisper in a crowd. 

It calls back to this image.

Each person here thinks they're a unique individual, only to be met with the startling reality of their own conformity. When you wear 'You' or 'Not a Perfume', you can buy into its claims of smelling unique on each person. Until you smell it on someone else and you realize 'huh, that's kind of familiar'. There's no risk involved, no trial and error of finding a perfume that embodies your personality and style. No risk of not liking something or even coming across unlikable yourself.

There's no thick jasmine of Mugler 'Alien', no swampy green of Cacharel 'Eden', and definitely no rich cherry-leather smell of Room 1015 'Cherry Punk'. For many, being an individual is out, there's no reason to interrogate yourself and your interests if you can't be picked out of a crowd.

This isn't the same as office-friendly scents, which are just perfumes you can wear that smell pleasant without choking everyone in your cramped space out. This is the appeal of nothingness. Of fitting in but convincing yourself that you're really different while also not making any efforts to make a real impression.

There's a contradiction involved, as with anything. People are no longer proud to step outside the box and if they do? Well they just copy. There's an insecurity involved in not wanting to be the first person to stand out so instead you copy someone else and hope the momentum that propelled them works for them as well.

Maybe that's why 'clean' smelling perfumes have evolved from being a symbol of health to a symbol of sameness. As you hop from clean girl to coastal grandma to tomato girl every few months there's no need to really find something that represents you.

You don't know who you are.

Cool for the Summer: Guide to the Goldfish Princess

 With summer around the corner I find myself realizing more and more: I'm not sexy, I'm cute. And that's not a negative! For years I've seen girls my age and younger who seem to be more mature than me, they seem sexier, they seem sultrier while I've always felt like an eternal child with my short stature and neotenous face. But I was still missing this wide eyed innocence associated with styles like Key West Kitten (a name I loathe due to its origin but that's neither here nor there). I've always felt I existed in the middle, not completely womanly and sultry, but not quite juvenile and nostalgic either.

So if you aren't a Key West Kitten but you aren't a Summer Siren either what are you to do?

Well you might just be a Goldfish Princess.

Straddling the line between the two aforementioned looks, you're both bubbly and flirtatious. You won't be partying on someone's yacht or building sandcastles, but you always find your way in someones beach cabana sipping a fruity drink and laughing at a wild story. There's something bright and effervescent about you, like a cold can of orange pop on a hot summer day: sticky sweet and refreshing.

The basic color palette is simple. Pinks, pinky-oranges, lilac and vibrant shades of orange. And you don't want anything flat, oh no it's all about shimmers and iridescence and of course sequins. You want to emulate fish scales, but you don't want to rely on the traditional summer beachy color of blue. Instead you want to shine. And when it comes to patterns keep them big, too many small patterns can come across as too cutesy, and none at all can sometimes be too serious.

Mesh, crochet, organza are the fabrics to go with, anything that leaves a whisper of sensuality like if you ran into the water you'll come out with your clothes clinging to you like a second skin. It's not overtly sexy, but it's flirtatious. That's the key to the whole look: flirty. A sweet smile and a double entendre but you'd still rather hang out with your friends even if you have several numbers in your pocket.

For shoes think platforms, platforms and more platforms! Whether they be cork wedges or sandals, you want something with height but also stability. You're running around in them during the day and dancing in them at night!

Now that you got the basic look down, you may be wondering about accessories and for those I saw keep it simple in design but not necessarily in amount. Stack your bracelets! Wear beaded and gold anklets and get that extra piercing you've been thinking about.

The most fun part just may be the makeup. Sticking to its vintage inspiration (Cleo the Goldfish from Pinocchio), you want that well--golden orange glow. For that you need a good base which is tanned skin. Go with the self tanner or the tanning oil (with caution) for that natural bronze to the skin! A good shimmer body oil is also perfect for this look. Again you want to glimmer in the sun the way fish scales do, and NUXE has beautiful oils in a pinky gold shimmer as well as a classic gold. The plus to this oil is it can be used on your hair, face and body and you truly want to shine all over for this. It's really important to look for things that are pink-orange if you can and not rose gold, which is a completely different kind of finish.

Since orange is the name of the game here, orange blush is a must and thankfully more brands have a true vibrant orange than they used to. Coral is fine too, but orange truly lights deeper skin tones from within. Fenty, Makeup by Mario, About Face and more have many true oranges to look for. Combine this with a bronzer of your choice for a truly sunkissed glow.

What may be the scariest part of this look is an orange lip. People may be afraid to look clownish and I understand! But it's all about picking the right one. You can go for a coral-pink like the Fenty Glow Bomb in C U In Maui & the Maybelline Teddy Tint in Baby Tee. Or if you're brave enough you can shoot for Mac 'Flamingo' and Fashion Fair 'Olè Orange'. Either way, they can both be tampered and tamed by a simple brown liner or a plum (pink if you're fairer) lip liner like Buxom's Power Line Plumping Liner in Powerful Plum or the Colourpop Lippie Pencil in Shot Clock.

And the most important lip product for this look in my opinion is Mac's Lipglass in Nymphette. It's a beautiful orangey-pink with an orange iridescent shimmer and can truly be worn by anyone. Where alone, as a topper or in a lip combo, it's a truly stunning shade that pulls more pink on some and more gold on others.

To balance out the look with some more pink, I recommend the INLP Nail Polish in Yes Please for it's pink holographic shimmer on the hands and toes. No white toes around here!

Alright, the sun's gone down and you've been invited to a beach party. You want your nighttime look to pop. What do you wear? Well Kiko and Half Magic have you covered with their gorgeous shimmer eyeshadows. Kiko's Water Eyeshadows give more of a wet effect, while the Half Magic Eyeshadow Singles emphasize the glitter. Whether its gold, orange, purple or blue, these shimmers will dazzle without a doubt. Just top it with a waterproof mascara for longevity.

When it comes to hair, I imagine the Goldfish Princess to be eternally windswept. The curls are never 100% defined, there's always a little fuzz to them. But I also imagine the hair to be short whether it's a TWA or a pixie. There's something carefree about shorter hair. As for the color, coppers and honey blondes and reddish golds. Like the sun's been caressing your head all your life.

Now we've gone over what the Goldfish Princess looks like, but what does she smell like? Salty, briny aquatics? Juicy tropical fruits? Well. Sorta kinda both! Poesie Perfumes has a perfume of the same name, which a lovely twitter mutual (persephone_girl) reminded me of and I'm 100% sure that's where the name came to me from, just sitting in the back of my subconscious for years until I was directed towards where I got it from. It's a playful scent described as 'sea salt caramel, shimmering golden amber, ocean waves whipped by a cool wind, magic potions'.Unfortunately the scent is seasonal and is currently unavailable for purchase (keep an eye out).

So I scoured for something to supplement it, and I knew realistically, this was a scent profile that could only be conjured by an indie perfume brand. Instead, I figured I make it a combo with two scents that individually fulfilled my two requirements: gourmand and aquatic. And if you know me, you know I view perfume layering as an art It's glamour magic, it's crafting a story and a new persona using the luscious sense of smell.

What I found was something better than I could have dreamed of.

Starting off we have Suspended Water Lily by Syd Botanica

To preface and for full transparency, this is not a scent I've experienced myself, so I am going based on various consumer reviews.

Many describe Suspended Water Lily as a 'mermaid' or 'water nymph' scent. Some get a more freshwater feeling to it, likely due to the algae, but it's still a bright and refreshing aquatic scent with a light ginger note that makes it fizzy and effervescent. It opens with a white floral blast before giving way to the ocean beneath, and some remark that the seashells have an almost briny sea creature smell. But a sweet one.

This to me sounded perfect. It has the exact aquatic qualities I wanted for the Goldfish Princess.

But where would I get the gourmand not? Well, apparently on my beauty shelf!

If you're in the know then you know PrtygrlBeauty. An independent business beloved by all the girls who love to smell good (and apparently Monaleo as well). Her range of body care is no joke, and smells absolutely amazing while lasting forever and actually keeping the skin soft.

Her body nectar 'Brown Sugar Babe' is amazing, smelling sweet and caramelly all day. I truly recommend mixing it with an unscented lotion for this, it's that strong. But it's a testament to it's quality.

Now that you're the shimmering Goldfish Princess from head to toe, I think you're ready to conquer the beach. You don't need to be an ultra sexed up girl or the dolly little beach bunny if it doesn't speak to your heart. Instead you can be something in between, dazzling the beach and after it's all over? The sushi restaurant.

Hey it's not cannibalism! It's the circle of life!

It Girl Series: Cultivating Style One Perfume Combo at a Time

Perfume is more than just another item to own. For me it's a ritual. It's a crucial step in becoming the version of me I know exists deep down, even if my outfit of the day may be bummy. As much as I love fashion styling, I know the right scent will really tip it over the edge and truly create the overall image you want to present.

If you've been following me on Tumblr, you know my it girl series is fairly popular. It focuses on using perfumes not to fulfill an aesthetic per say, but to tie together your personal style. And I've decided to expand that here but not only will it be perfume, I'll also include makeup and fashion as well. I can't take complete credit for this, as I was greatly inspired by Hannahejo on tiktok, but I focused primarly on fragrance while she does a variety of clothing, jewelry, makeup and miscellaneous items. I found her ability to create niche aesthetics to be very inspiring, and very akin to what I've been doing on Polyvore/Shoplook for over a decade. I'm not saying I started this of course not, she's older than me and has no idea what I am, but instead that I felt a connection knowing there was someone in the world who does the same thing i do. A collective consciousness if you will.

Starting soon I will be transferring my it girl posts onto here and expanding them, and in fact, this will be tied into my bombshell guide so I hope you all enjoy and maybe even find something that resonates with you!

Gaminessance : Sexy Babies will rise!!!

Big doe eyes, round button lips and soft cheeks. A slight pout and a gentle wrinkle of the brows.

Everyone loves a gamine, and it’s no surprise they’re making a comeback. The original Gamine Takeover started in the 60s with Edie Sedgewick and Twiggy but I would be remiss to not mention Thee gamine icon Audrey Hepburn, unfairly viewed as the “anti-Marilyn”, Hepburn was notable for her girls, waifish frame and persona which was a stark contrast to the voluptuous and romantic Marilyn Monroe…I think you can see where I’m going with this. The gamine is impish, alluring and charming in a way that’s reminiscent of the girl next door coming into her own over the summer (see: Audrey Hepburn’s Sabrina). That doesn't mean she isn't sexy per say - I mean look at Janet Jackson - but moreso she's sexy by way of girlish giggles and rolling eyes.

The sensual romantic can feel too unattainable for many, sometimes you’re more “cute” than sexy, and participating in sexier trends can have you feeling like a child praying dress-up There's a reason “siren eyes” never saw me. But more than anything, the revival of more girlish, youthful styles like balletcore or coquette were the biggest indicator. The baddie styles of the late 10s and early 00s have been on the decline and we are seeing the rise of the gamine again. Everyday people post about big brown doe eyes, round lips and basically looking like a little angel baby. I can’t say I’m mad at it. I'm a libra rising I was born to be angel baby princess of the world.

As the leader of the Sexy Baby coalition, this is most pleasing to me. I cannot help my round eyes and doll lips have captivated so many and its about time the world has started catering to my needs! I'm short, petite and soft get those bodycons away from me!

The post modern gamine will likely be influenced by twee; the indie babygirls of the 2010s who were too cute to be the intimidating hipsters. And with the growing backlash against bimbo aesthetics and more embracing the “mean, esoteric, pretentious” brunette with looks such as the sultry office siren. A return to collars like peter pan collars and maybe even the detachable ones made of lace or crochet, mary janes, boat necks, boots and lots and lots of layering. She will be the 2020s neo-coquettes boyish and boisterous sister.

I do see a Bridget Bardot influence with the increased interest in Sabrina Carpenter after her scuffle with the Catholic Church, she's great gamine inspo for those who cant quite let go of their hyperfeminine roots.

I see this leading to be more Anna Karina than Twiggy or Zooey Deschanel. The 2020s gamine will drink black coffee, have blunt bangs and crawl around in tartan skirts and turtlenecks. Lily-Rose Depp's ever growing popularity and the anti-buccal fat removal campaign has caused people to plump their faces with filler and praise the baby face.

There will still be that characteristic playfulness but more sardonic and biting than the empty-headed bimbo persona. There will also likely be more embracing the tomboyish and androgynous aspects as we have reached peak hyper-femininity. Expect a lot of bobs, pixie cuts, and TWAs. She's the sexiest tomboy you know.

60s makeup is always going viral on twitter, more Turkan Soray than Twiggy, as we continue to phase out of the siren eyes into the more minimal office siren look. There was a prediction that maximalist 2010s would be the next big thing but tonal glam has made a surprising appearance, a look brought to attention by MUA Ani James. But I think the gamine will lean more into the 60s vibe and apply the "sexy baby" staples of rounded lips, and flushed cheeks with darker liner. Maybe a little blue shadow if you're nasty. The popularity of Sofia Coppola's Priscilla will likely lead to an increased interest in the era amongst young women.

A major elephant in the room is body types. Gamines are known for their boyish, waifish bodies. There’s been talk of the “BBL-pocalypse” for a few years that pointed towards people being sick of the exaggerated hourglass figure, with multiple stars taking out their implants or getting surgeries reversed, however the biggest indicator is economical: the recession. When the economy gets worse people get skinnier which is why the late 00s were…like that. ED twitter has been terrorizing us for years now, the coquette waif-pocalypse has made pro ana and fatshaming an unfortunate staple of the subculture (just look at how many people think coquette is inherently pro-ana) and the backlash towards the most recent VSFS has brought about longing for a time where we were less diverse and fat people were invisible and mocked. The gamine will inevitably play into that on some level. Let’s hope we as a collective have enough of a backbone to platform and uplift fat bodies and call out fatphobia (but given how spineless some people are…only time will tell). 

Are you ready for the Gaminnessance of 2024?

(Me living my gamine truth over the years.)

"It Girls" and the failure of the Tumblr Renaissance

 “Societies in decline have no use for visionaries.”

― Anais Nin

“Clean girl”, “That girl”, “It Girl” we are in a fucking girl-pocalypse and I for one am sick of people acting like any of you have the range. I mean I saw this coming back in 2020 when we were talking about the whole “main character energy”. The real pandemic is people repackaging tumblr era subcultures and aesthetics as if it’s a brand new thing that they created. I’ve been on the internet since they were learning not to slob on their mush peas and they’re telling me I don’t know what I’m talking about.

The real issue is that these self proclaimed “It Girls”' (because lets be honest they only reached it girl status because they forced it), don’t know their history. They reference without knowing what they’re referencing, they don’t know their cultural context. That’s how we have reductive wannabe’s like Aliyahsinterlude who are able to browbeat everyone with “aliyahcore” even though it’s just late 2000s rave aesthetic with costumey “Y2k” color palettes and silhouettes. Throw in a little gyaru while we’re at it, why not. 

People forget the beauty of It Girls was how mundane and almost nerdy they were. Chloe Sevigny was just a random girl in New York’s underground scene who attracted people with her easy nature and guileless eyes. Tavi Gevinson was a regular yet artistic girl who started off taking pictures in her room. Hell, even Anna Karina was a teenage runaway who didn’t speak French. But these girls have personality, they have clear interests that make people want to know more about them.

It girls of the 2010s were born and bred on tumblr, and people are still clamoring to replicate that allure on tiktok and twitter to a lesser extent. It doesn’t work. They can’t monetise it they way they can on Tiktok and Instagram. Everyday girls on Tiktok cry and whine about not being a Tumblr girl during it's heyday and God I'm glad they weren’t. They seek to be popular for popularities sake. They’re quirky in a highly curated way. Everything is empty and vacuous behind their lobotomised stares. 

It’s easy to buy your way into coolness. Wanna seem quirky and cute? Pay $20 for a Sonny Angel figurine. Wanna be mysterious and interesting? Carry around the latest slop by Otessa Moshfegh and pose with a cigarette you won’t smoke. The Tumblr Renaissance has been rumbling since 2020 and it won't ever work because people don’t care enough. So instead they take what the Tumblr girls have been doing for the past 2-4 years and bring it to Tiktok like it’s the new hot thing, And don’t you dare ask for credit or swarms of perfectly coiffed yet deliberately messy “it girlbloggers” in training will swarm your comments saying your not good enough because you didn’t spend $40 on a mediocre lip gloss.

Everybody wants to make a statement but nobody has anything to say. It’s not cool to care or to develop unique interests when someone has a ready made personality pack on Depop so you can pretend to be subversive. When you see someone else’s personality gain them 100k on Tiktok why carve your own niche when you can just wear their skin. We saw it with the Alida Simone clones and their constipated smiles (disregarding the fact that Alida smiled like that because she wore braces and was in her teeny key west kitten porno phase).

We will never get a real Tumblr Renaissance and we need to let sleeping dogs lie. Girls prefer to rewrite history instead of learn it because they’re mad they didn’t do it first as we see with the bizarre reframing of Coquette as a hyper feminine Rococo inspired aesthetic to make it more palatable to outside audiences instead of embracing the messy, vulgar, uncomfortable aspects of it that made it truly subversive. “Reclaiming girlhood” just doesn’t have the same conservative, capitalist ring as “reclaiming femininity” needed to mold future alt right tradwives in the making. It’s also much harder to do a Brandy/Shein/Amazon haul if the subculture you wanna infiltrate is based on self expression when you have none. Sad to see.