I'm Still a Slut for Animalics: Young Hussies

 

We're gonna break away from the old girls (affectionate, reverent) and we're gonna meet the new hussies. These animalics are created with synthetic animal notes or by replicating it with non animal scents like cumin. Don't sleep on these, as they're staying strong in a wave of florals and gourmands.

(2006) Kicking off this century we have Putain Des Palaces by ELDO, another perfume for whores (it's name translates to palace whore) and its made to envoke a whore's boudoir: lace, powder, skin musk. Her nightly routine. It's a sensuous fantasy, and it's powdery notes make her delicate, and demure underneath the seduction.

(2012) Mad Madam by JHAG is a very carnal rose. Wwell its not just the rose, but the whole bush thorns and all. It's like you stumbled out scratched and a little bloodied after an ill-fated idea to take a tumble. It has a nice greenness to it, very sexy and luscious. It's dirty earthiness gives it an edge over other roses.

(2015) Here we have Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes, and this is a raunchy girl befitting her name. To many this smells like straight up sex, or at the very least how you smell after having sex and you put on a fur coat instead of a robe. The florals come in and give it a bit of class but not much. It's dry and sweaty and honestly? A little perverse. An animalic very much in the vein of her foremothers.

(2017) You thought I wouldn't add another scent by the modern Queen of Animalics?? Well this time we're venturing into Under My Skin by Francesca Bianchi. This is sensual, warm, and completely fits its name with its skin-like scent. This isn't clean skin but it isn't dirty skin either, this is the human smell of your body after it's sweated in the warm sun. Blends well and and settles smoothly like all her other creations.

(2021) Now in this decade we have Rosenrot Intense, created by the metal band Rammstein. This perfume is odd in a good way, it's animalic by way of a tiger with a bloodied face after a feast. But dont be too scared of the blood note, it's really not that prominent I just like exaggerating. I'd say the incense note is more prominent, making this more of a smoky animalic rose with a slight metallic undercurrant.

(2024) Les Cahiers Secrets is a perfume with a backstory catered to me. The brand Jouissance based it's scents on female erotica writers, and this one in particular is based on Anais Nin. It's another powdery skin scent, and I don't mean skin scent as in close and soft, but in that it mimics skin. It's slightly sweaty, and the mid notes give it a makeupy scent. Perfect for banging out smut for a dollar a page.

(2024) I'm not gonna lie and say Black Dog by d.grayi is easy (or well...good) but it's interesting. The durian note makes it a rough opener and as someone unfamiliar with the fruit I gagged a bit, but it settles into something darker, more mysterious and a little gothic as the licorice and animalic notes of the base come out. I'd be scared of this one, but intrigued.

(2024) Lastly we have Super Sexy Skunk, another rough go from d.grayi but also very interesting! It's cannabis notes are potent, and that's where the skunk widely comes from. But it's almost nostalgic like being in the back of a nissan altima smoking weed way too young. It truly is super sexy, and also very dangerous with its oud and animal notes. even the chocolate gives it some edge.

My Skin but Nothing - 'Clean' smelling perfumes and the allure of conformity

 Nowadays it seems like everyone is afraid to take up space. From loudly defending the right to be like everyone else to videos of influencers in the same white-beige uniform, it's like there's a war on individuality. And this isn't about people who share common ground, no this is about those who flood someone's comments asking where they got their straight leg jeans from so they can have their exact pair. Proclaiming to be just like other girls has shifted from a sense of camaraderie amongst young women, pushing back against misogynistic mocking to a rallying cry for conformity. If you don't like the same music, same clothes, same perfume and same colors as this narrow definition of a "girl" well now you'll be cast aside and looked down upon.

I'm not the first to say that this is a symbol of a rise of fascism. Tiktok's like this give an insight to something everyone is noticing, the masses are becoming more homogenous than ever, which makes them easier to control.

You may be wondering what that has to do with perfume?

Well, quite a bit actually!

Once upon a time "skin scents" were just perfumes without large projection. They were intimate, sat close to skin, but they weren't necessarily soft. A spicy or*ental (outdated term, but more accurately describes what I'm thinking of more than 'amber') could settle into a skin scent before long. But now, skin scents are used to describe ambroxan heavy, barely there perfumes.

If you have no idea what an ambroxan heavy perfume is, look no further than Glossier 'You', the shining star of this scent category. Glossier 'You' rose in popularity during the 2020 pandemic (although the pandemic is very much still happening), alongside the rise of "clean girl" and it makes sense. During a time filled with sickness, people were looking to be almost sterilized, their visual appearance a marker of clean health as anxieties rose. So it's no wonder a perfume that smells like nothing took the girls by storm. There was nothing messy about it, it was reminiscent of clean, washed skin. Not soapy however, that's a different category that holds perfumes such as Replica's 'Bubble Bath'.

The popularity of 'my skin but nothing' perfumes have only increased. Molecule 01, JHAG Not a Perfume, the Glossier 'You' flankers. All marketing themselves as smelling different on every body and "enhancing pheromones" but there's a problem.

They all smell the same.

And not in the traditional designer perfumes all being a vague fruity-floral-amber mess but in that the marketing is only telling half the story. Sure they smell different to an extent as everyone's skin brings out different aspects but for the most part they smell of the same musky-ambery nothingness. Theres a falsity to its promises. 'Buy this perfume that smells like nothing and you'll be a unique individual with little effort.' It's blandness is a comfort in a way, as people can pretend to be unique as they only make a whisper in a crowd. 

It calls back to this image.

Each person here thinks they're a unique individual, only to be met with the startling reality of their own conformity. When you wear 'You' or 'Not a Perfume', you can buy into its claims of smelling unique on each person. Until you smell it on someone else and you realize 'huh, that's kind of familiar'. There's no risk involved, no trial and error of finding a perfume that embodies your personality and style. No risk of not liking something or even coming across unlikable yourself.

There's no thick jasmine of Mugler 'Alien', no swampy green of Cacharel 'Eden', and definitely no rich cherry-leather smell of Room 1015 'Cherry Punk'. For many, being an individual is out, there's no reason to interrogate yourself and your interests if you can't be picked out of a crowd.

This isn't the same as office-friendly scents, which are just perfumes you can wear that smell pleasant without choking everyone in your cramped space out. This is the appeal of nothingness. Of fitting in but convincing yourself that you're really different while also not making any efforts to make a real impression.

There's a contradiction involved, as with anything. People are no longer proud to step outside the box and if they do? Well they just copy. There's an insecurity involved in not wanting to be the first person to stand out so instead you copy someone else and hope the momentum that propelled them works for them as well.

Maybe that's why 'clean' smelling perfumes have evolved from being a symbol of health to a symbol of sameness. As you hop from clean girl to coastal grandma to tomato girl every few months there's no need to really find something that represents you.

You don't know who you are.

Love is in the Air: Venus - Nui Cobalt Designs

 

This current formulation is currently in the process of being reformulated so I admittedly jumped at the chance to try the original. It has this powdery, heady quality I find I love in indie scents.

The scent profile fully matches its name. It's sensual but not overtly so. Reminds me of a boudoir or an opium den, maybe both. Its richly and densely floral in a way thats almost fuzzy, very reminiscent of sticking your head into a bouquet of flowers or even the whole bush, just to come out dizzy with petals sticking to your face and hair. I truly believe this would be beautiful mixed into an unscented lotion. 

100% a white floral, yet it doesn't have that skankiness nor is it too prim and proper. It balances the Madonna-Whore perfectly, it's Charlotte York in the trashy lingerie slip. I honestly pick up no vanilla or almond, if I had to guess I would say the shea and Queen Elizaneth (orris) root is what gives it that soft, fuzzy quality and prevents the florals from getting too sharp. It's also possibly why I think it would be great mixed into a lotion. That traditional *lavender* smell is also missing, you know the one. That dense almost green around the edges smell. Instead I'd say it takes a backseat, being more of a tickle. Rose is the clear star of the show here, not a fresh rose, and not a jammy one either. Purely a powdered rode, but not in a dated way. The fact that these oils are also used for witchcraft makes sense, as it has an almost apothecary like scent. If you're creating a love spell (God forbid) this is what you would anoint yourself in.

It's innocently seductive, wearing it around your crush may send them into a tizzy.

Because it's an oil it's quite potent, projects nicely and creates a scent bubble but when applied carefully Its not overpowering. just intoxicating. Use with caution.

Babys to Boudoirs: The Beauty of Powdery Perfumes Part Two

Continuing our foray into powdery scents, we'll explore some hidden gems. These perfumes are not the most popular sans one of them, she's the exeption. The rest are perfumes that flew under the radar even during their prime, often found at bargain stores or mysteriously appearing on your mother's vanity one day.

Teite de Neige is a more elegant powder, she's the beloved choir girl, the star of the show and the opening act. Super luxurious, and leans more vintage without being dated. Old hollywood glamour in a bottle.

Ciel is another 'baby' baby powder. It's sweet and vanilla with a powdery dry down and conjures up images of girlish innocence. A great after bath scent that makes you feel clean and cozy.

Not Your Baby lives up to its name, this is a powder that wants to be more assertive but still has some of its childish dreams. The muskiness is warmer, likely due to the cardamom and sandalwood, making it a little more sultry and clings to the skin for a decent amount of time.

Une Histoire de Femme Sensuelle is a creamier scent. The scent leans more towards lotion under freshly powdered skin and brings to mind both nivea cream and baby powder all at the same time. It's something you wear when you just want to smell good and maybe roll around in freshly laundered sheets.

I'm Still a Slut for Animalics: Old Heauxs

 

I'm back with more! As we enter a new year, I've realized nothing will ever top my love of animalics. To me this is the peak of femininity--not florals or gourmands, but the raw sex appeal of this perfume category embodies every thing I want to be. And this time I'm upping the ante. We're moving away from softer musks and honey notes, instead we're going full blown sweaty and skanky with cumin, castoreum and civet. These are difficult and they're supposed to be. So to make things more interesting we're gonna explore older, vintage animalics versus newer animalics and see how they differ and compare.


Vintage animalics are notable for their use of animal products. The practice has been thankfully discontinued but I can't lie and say I don't smell the difference. They were richer, dirtier and overall more potent. Therefore if you want the full experience i recommend Ebay, Facebook Marketplace, Vinted and estate sales for older bottles.


To start, we're rummaging around your Grandma's closet to meet some of these Old Heauxs.

(1932) The oldest on the list, Tabu was beloved by old Hollyword stars for its sultry, spicy ultra-feminine scent. Crafted by perfumer Jean Carles, he was reportedly given the scandalous instructions to make a perfume for "whores" and that he did! It's lush and rich, projecting far and making an appearence before you step into the room. A favorite of Dorothy Dandridge it's no surprise this was favored by many a screen siren. However I suggest you look on Ebay for vintage versions as they're easy to come by and aren't too expensive. The new reformulations just don't cut it!

(1944) Femme Rochas is next, this scent was famously worn by Mae West and its shapely bottle matches her figure perfectly. The peach mimics soft, warm skin and its spiciness adds depth and sensuality. A perfume that makes you want to wear nothing else. While vintage bottles are best, the modern reformulations are also lovely.

(1944) Another 40s creation, Bandit isn't as favored as Fracas (notably worn by stars like Madonna) as it's more androgynous, edgy and quite frankly tough. Perfect for Marlene Dietrich who was known for her transgressive roles and star power. Bandit is a vetiver forward fragrance with a rich leather and civet drydown. This isn't for the frivolous type. If you wear this you're on top.

(1962) Bal à Versailles is extremely animalic. Deep, spicy and resinous it's a highly polarizing scent. The powdery notes are either cloying or comforting, and this is one where all reformulations are pretty good, but there's enough differences where some prefer one over the others. As vintage as it gets and not for the faint of heart.


As we say goodbye to these jezebels, we will make our way down to meet some young hussies. They may wear faux fur instead of a real mink but don't count them out. They're as sensual as their foremothers and just as daring, even if the seduce with a bit more coy flirtation over a vulgar innuendo.

Looks That Kill: Bambi Fawn

 

Bambi Fawn Makeup

There’s something sweet and beguiling about this look. Wide eyes framed by fluttery lashes and lots of soft warm brown tones. Perfect for fall, here’s how to look like a soft fawn playing in the fallen leaves.

Base: Truly the key to it all is the base. The skin should be mostly matte with a few strategically placed elements of shine. Light to medium coverage is preferred. Brightening concealer should be under the eyes but don't go for the shocking bright thats popular now, instead only go about one or half a shade lighter and blend. I also recommend light underpainting with a bronzer at the temples, forehead and very lightly on the bridge of the nose for an autumnal sun baked look. Cream bronzer is the way to go.

Face: Keep it very simple. A terracotta, orange or straight up brown blush works best. Apply under the eyes up slightly to the temples but keep a light hand. This look calls for more of a tanned flush than a high beam of color. Try Fenty Cheeks Out Cream Blush 'Rose Latte' or Patrick Ta Double Take Blush Duo ' She's Blushing'

Brows: Keep them as natural as possible, but groomed. Tame them with a brow gel, and this look really gives that wide eyed look if the brows are thinner and farther apart with a slight highlight underneath them. Try not to make them too dark but they don't have to be pale either. Try Benefit Gimme Brow+

Eyes: You want them big and open. Line your upper lid with a soft brown, just darker than your skin tone and also line the lower lash line. Then take a nude (not white) pencil and line the waterline focusing on the inner corner. Nyx Vivid Rich Mechanical Eyeliner Pencil 'Under the Moonstone' & 'Quartz Queen'. Then layer lots of mascara, brown preferably for a softer look, Go for something lengthening like BADgal BANG! Volumizing Mascara.

Lips: If you hate lip liner this is truly the look for you. While you can still wear one if you prefer this look shines best without one. For those with darker skin and lips, go for a soft brownish nude. Try not to go darker than your skin tone as it should be your lips but better. Satin and matte finishes work best, just try not to go too glossy. The best shades are MAC 'Hug Me', 'I Deserve This' & 'Can't Dull My Shine'. Along with Sephora Cream Lip Stain 'Chocolate Lover' and Fenty Gloss Bomb Stix High-Shine Gloss Stick 'Hot Chocolit'

Is that Lust in your panties or are you just happy to see me?: Lush 'Lust' Review

 Ever since I was 19 and read Little Birds by Anais Nin for the first time, I've focused my life on the erotic. I've become a true sensualist--I tongue oysters before i eat them to savor the briny taste,  the search for a Little Drink to accompany my errands is an Odyssey just so I can let it drip down my chin as I drink it, I prefer masturbation to be a fully nude process.

I find ways to engage my senses. And nothing is more sensory overload than Lush's 'Lust'.

The first time I ever sprayed it was on a hot day in New Orleans. The public transit was free so me and my best friend Bee hit up the French Quarter. It was packed, Mardi Gras season, bodies stuck together as the puppy parade went by and we ended up in the Lush store. Lust is a fragrance I knew well--okay I knew of it. And it was something pg a legend to me. I heard it stunk to high heavens, that it smelled like a girl's locker room, that it was almost offensive in its potency.

I knew I had to try it, so I did. One good spray on my wrist right in the middle of the store and dear God I was gagged. Or I did gag I really can't remember, all I remember was I got dizzy and Bee's face scrunched in confusion. As we walked to the pizza store she walked slightly upwind of me and to the side, all she could say was "I can smell you from here."

(me around that time)

It'd be almost two years before I smelled again, this time in the room of a friend of a friend before a night out and I'm not sure if it's because my nose evolved or her bottle was older and more saturated but this time when I smelled it I couldn't get enough. I was intrigued before but it was intoxicating now. Perhaps the fact that it was winter helped but it was this raunchy, yet beautiful and almost glamorous jasmine scent.

(me the winter i rediscovered it. i chopped all my hair off that same morning.)

At that moment I resigned myself to getting my own. This time though, I settled on the solid perfume as I only have one full bottle on my wish list currently.'

This time my journey was similar to the first, an unseasonably warm day in Chicago I spent most my time backed in traffic. By the time I got to the Lush store and circled for a park (that I luckily and maybe illegally? got that was on the same street as the building) I was hot, irritated and anxious about getting my car towed.

I peetered around a bit, touched the different bath bombs and shower steamers. Played at getting a soap, all so I didn't look like a woman on a mission but I was.

I sniffed some other scents (taking note of Rose Jam which was a sweeter, brighter sister of my beloved Accrodisiaque by Versatile Paris), but I knew I wanted Lust. And after trying the solid perfume on again I was overwhelmed.

This is what I loved, this is what I wanted. And God does it kind of fucking stink.

Now having applied the solid version all over my body in the car with the a/c on, I can positively confirm that yeah Lust smells like a hormonal toilet. 

It smells like being 13 and horny. You're shaky legged and kind of disgusted with yourself but shameless all at the same time. The object of your desire is a disgruntled old man with grey in his beard and you fantasize about him kidnapping you and in that fantasy you/re chained up in his basement smelling like sweat fear and arousal. Each attempt to seduce him of course fails because you reek like a newborn puppy.

It's perfect. It's an aphrodisiac if the man who approached me drunk and stumbling, declaring his love for me 3 seconds after I reapplied has anything to say about it.

It really truly blooms on sweaty skin, the jasmine unfurling to emit an aroma so intense I understand why virgins were prohibited from coming near the flower. My new proclivity to rose notes has caused me to pick up on the rosy notes underneath that I didn't pick up the first time. It really does sort of smell like sweat. There's a robustness to the scent that I love, it's full bodied and want's your attention but she still plays well with others as I've worn this alone as well as layered with other scents. Lust is everything I love about a floral, it's not petals floating in water, but the full bodied bushel, something I think it missing from a lot of the floral scent's I've tried. 

Too many florals are scared to be florals, hence the many peony-rose-lychee abominations that have clawed at my throat as of late.

Lust is not an easy or delicate perfume at all. She's in your face, in fact she's shoving your face in her sweaty bosom. But she's beautiful, and wild and everything you want to be.

Cool for the Summer: Guide to the Goldfish Princess

 With summer around the corner I find myself realizing more and more: I'm not sexy, I'm cute. And that's not a negative! For years I've seen girls my age and younger who seem to be more mature than me, they seem sexier, they seem sultrier while I've always felt like an eternal child with my short stature and neotenous face. But I was still missing this wide eyed innocence associated with styles like Key West Kitten (a name I loathe due to its origin but that's neither here nor there). I've always felt I existed in the middle, not completely womanly and sultry, but not quite juvenile and nostalgic either.

So if you aren't a Key West Kitten but you aren't a Summer Siren either what are you to do?

Well you might just be a Goldfish Princess.

Straddling the line between the two aforementioned looks, you're both bubbly and flirtatious. You won't be partying on someone's yacht or building sandcastles, but you always find your way in someones beach cabana sipping a fruity drink and laughing at a wild story. There's something bright and effervescent about you, like a cold can of orange pop on a hot summer day: sticky sweet and refreshing.

The basic color palette is simple. Pinks, pinky-oranges, lilac and vibrant shades of orange. And you don't want anything flat, oh no it's all about shimmers and iridescence and of course sequins. You want to emulate fish scales, but you don't want to rely on the traditional summer beachy color of blue. Instead you want to shine. And when it comes to patterns keep them big, too many small patterns can come across as too cutesy, and none at all can sometimes be too serious.

Mesh, crochet, organza are the fabrics to go with, anything that leaves a whisper of sensuality like if you ran into the water you'll come out with your clothes clinging to you like a second skin. It's not overtly sexy, but it's flirtatious. That's the key to the whole look: flirty. A sweet smile and a double entendre but you'd still rather hang out with your friends even if you have several numbers in your pocket.

For shoes think platforms, platforms and more platforms! Whether they be cork wedges or sandals, you want something with height but also stability. You're running around in them during the day and dancing in them at night!

Now that you got the basic look down, you may be wondering about accessories and for those I saw keep it simple in design but not necessarily in amount. Stack your bracelets! Wear beaded and gold anklets and get that extra piercing you've been thinking about.

The most fun part just may be the makeup. Sticking to its vintage inspiration (Cleo the Goldfish from Pinocchio), you want that well--golden orange glow. For that you need a good base which is tanned skin. Go with the self tanner or the tanning oil (with caution) for that natural bronze to the skin! A good shimmer body oil is also perfect for this look. Again you want to glimmer in the sun the way fish scales do, and NUXE has beautiful oils in a pinky gold shimmer as well as a classic gold. The plus to this oil is it can be used on your hair, face and body and you truly want to shine all over for this. It's really important to look for things that are pink-orange if you can and not rose gold, which is a completely different kind of finish.

Since orange is the name of the game here, orange blush is a must and thankfully more brands have a true vibrant orange than they used to. Coral is fine too, but orange truly lights deeper skin tones from within. Fenty, Makeup by Mario, About Face and more have many true oranges to look for. Combine this with a bronzer of your choice for a truly sunkissed glow.

What may be the scariest part of this look is an orange lip. People may be afraid to look clownish and I understand! But it's all about picking the right one. You can go for a coral-pink like the Fenty Glow Bomb in C U In Maui & the Maybelline Teddy Tint in Baby Tee. Or if you're brave enough you can shoot for Mac 'Flamingo' and Fashion Fair 'Olè Orange'. Either way, they can both be tampered and tamed by a simple brown liner or a plum (pink if you're fairer) lip liner like Buxom's Power Line Plumping Liner in Powerful Plum or the Colourpop Lippie Pencil in Shot Clock.

And the most important lip product for this look in my opinion is Mac's Lipglass in Nymphette. It's a beautiful orangey-pink with an orange iridescent shimmer and can truly be worn by anyone. Where alone, as a topper or in a lip combo, it's a truly stunning shade that pulls more pink on some and more gold on others.

To balance out the look with some more pink, I recommend the INLP Nail Polish in Yes Please for it's pink holographic shimmer on the hands and toes. No white toes around here!

Alright, the sun's gone down and you've been invited to a beach party. You want your nighttime look to pop. What do you wear? Well Kiko and Half Magic have you covered with their gorgeous shimmer eyeshadows. Kiko's Water Eyeshadows give more of a wet effect, while the Half Magic Eyeshadow Singles emphasize the glitter. Whether its gold, orange, purple or blue, these shimmers will dazzle without a doubt. Just top it with a waterproof mascara for longevity.

When it comes to hair, I imagine the Goldfish Princess to be eternally windswept. The curls are never 100% defined, there's always a little fuzz to them. But I also imagine the hair to be short whether it's a TWA or a pixie. There's something carefree about shorter hair. As for the color, coppers and honey blondes and reddish golds. Like the sun's been caressing your head all your life.

Now we've gone over what the Goldfish Princess looks like, but what does she smell like? Salty, briny aquatics? Juicy tropical fruits? Well. Sorta kinda both! Poesie Perfumes has a perfume of the same name, which a lovely twitter mutual (persephone_girl) reminded me of and I'm 100% sure that's where the name came to me from, just sitting in the back of my subconscious for years until I was directed towards where I got it from. It's a playful scent described as 'sea salt caramel, shimmering golden amber, ocean waves whipped by a cool wind, magic potions'.Unfortunately the scent is seasonal and is currently unavailable for purchase (keep an eye out).

So I scoured for something to supplement it, and I knew realistically, this was a scent profile that could only be conjured by an indie perfume brand. Instead, I figured I make it a combo with two scents that individually fulfilled my two requirements: gourmand and aquatic. And if you know me, you know I view perfume layering as an art It's glamour magic, it's crafting a story and a new persona using the luscious sense of smell.

What I found was something better than I could have dreamed of.

Starting off we have Suspended Water Lily by Syd Botanica

To preface and for full transparency, this is not a scent I've experienced myself, so I am going based on various consumer reviews.

Many describe Suspended Water Lily as a 'mermaid' or 'water nymph' scent. Some get a more freshwater feeling to it, likely due to the algae, but it's still a bright and refreshing aquatic scent with a light ginger note that makes it fizzy and effervescent. It opens with a white floral blast before giving way to the ocean beneath, and some remark that the seashells have an almost briny sea creature smell. But a sweet one.

This to me sounded perfect. It has the exact aquatic qualities I wanted for the Goldfish Princess.

But where would I get the gourmand not? Well, apparently on my beauty shelf!

If you're in the know then you know PrtygrlBeauty. An independent business beloved by all the girls who love to smell good (and apparently Monaleo as well). Her range of body care is no joke, and smells absolutely amazing while lasting forever and actually keeping the skin soft.

Her body nectar 'Brown Sugar Babe' is amazing, smelling sweet and caramelly all day. I truly recommend mixing it with an unscented lotion for this, it's that strong. But it's a testament to it's quality.

Now that you're the shimmering Goldfish Princess from head to toe, I think you're ready to conquer the beach. You don't need to be an ultra sexed up girl or the dolly little beach bunny if it doesn't speak to your heart. Instead you can be something in between, dazzling the beach and after it's all over? The sushi restaurant.

Hey it's not cannibalism! It's the circle of life!