BATTLE OF THE NICHE CHERRIES: Una Tira I Altra Hilde Solani vs Indecent Cherry BTS)

 Early in my perfume journey I tried a lot of cherries: Prada Candy Gloss, Lolita Lempicka Sweet, Guess Seductive Red and more. As time has gone on, my taste in fruits have gone from cherry to peaches, something about the other stone fruit just exudes sexy to me, but that doesn't mean I shy away from cherry, in fact me being removed has made me appreciate the note more, and that leads me to my recent trip to Merz Apothecary in Chicago.

I got the opportunity to try these both today and lemme tell you with how many delicious cherries that have come out post lost cherry? That one rlly was a jumping off point to create an even better cherry, even in its own line.

To start with the first I smelled, Una Tira I Altra instantly felt very bright to my nose. not the Tom Ford Electric Cherry bright and zingy but a very uplifting, almost sparkly cherry. Not a cherry liquor but a fizzy cherry pop almost. Very youthful and bouncy I couldn't get enough.

Indecent Cherry was similar but with very noticeable differences. This was darker, smoother and almost muskier. Also a rich, juicy cherry scent but feels a tad sultrier. Ihis isn't Tom Ford dark it's just not the vibrant cherry pink of the former but instead well...a cherry red.

Both of them were amazing, but based on the price and my own personal taste, I'd prob shoot for Miss Solani.

Vintage Perfume Spotlight: Arpege My Sin

 

Created in 1924, My Sin was Lanvin’s first successful perfume, the only one surpassing it being Arpege which was beloved by stars like Marilyn Monroe and Rita Hayworth. It was originally named Mon Péché for its French release before being renamed to My Sin for American audiences who loved the scent so much it skyrocketed in popularity, which it never quite got in its home country.

It's advertisements featured a black cat, to convey the scents mystery and sensuality. The base of musk and civet (before it was regulated) is what gave it it's raunchy animalic base. Truly a feline perfume.

My Sin by Gabilla (left) and Lanvin (right)

The original formulations were created by perfumer Gabilla before Jeanne Lanvin moved forward with new perfumers, yet Gabilla also created a scent called My Sin and it is thought she was inspired by her time working with Lanvin.


It was said to have been an aldehydic bouquet of white flowers that then bloomed into a more sexual and exotic blend of florals that truly lived up to it's name.

Being that this scent was discontinued in 1988, I haven't been able to try it myself, though I do plan on changing that soon.

(source, source, source, source, source, source)

Vintage Perfume Spotlight: Chloe Innocence

Launched in 1995, Chloe Innocence was supposed to be the epitome of fresh faced girlhood. Inside it's frosted bottle contained a sugar-water floral that was dewy and soft, giving the impression of dewfrosted flowers. This was many a girl's first fragrance and for many it made them feel elegant and mature.

With the ad campaigns blonde haired, blue eyed model, she was every bit the ingenue, gazing past the viewer with a sort of timid sensuality. She just doesn't know what she does to people! Like many things of the 90s, this ad is a subconscious nod to Nabokov's famous nymphet, straddling the line between child and woman. Her skin is blemish free, and the sort of mirrored image displays both well--innocence and alertness. She looks both past you and through you. Woman and child.

The bottles were available in many shapes, giving it the aura of uniqueness, and its slightly phallic appearance was quite common in what I like to call 'sexy baby' perfumes: scents both seductive and guileless, barely containing burgeoning sexuality.


Yet their sculptural qualities akin to a modern art piece and frosted pearl blue color adds to its allure. While innocent, she's no baby. She's maturing, she's curious, she's artistic.


Crafted by Nathalie Lorson, this is a perfume of my dreams and one that continues to allude me due to its near obsoleteness on the resale market. And I don't have $500 to spend. So instead, I'll reread this review over and over.

Queens of Spring: Layering Combos as Bright and Fresh as You Are

 Spring is a fickle season, we all know that. That's why we have April showers bringing May flowers and what not, but despite the temperamental weather, spring always brings a sense of hope and rejuvenation even when winter tries her best to keep her icy fingers clutched around our ankles. To ring in the new season and brighten our moods, here's a few layering combos to bring us out of hibernation ranging from light and dewy to a trip to the cafe after a downpour.

The Darling Dewdrop:

You’re as fresh as a daisy. Wide eyed and excited for new life and new adventures as the temperature rises inch by inch every day. Spring is your favorite season and you look forward to wearing ballet flats and juicy clear lips in the crisp new air, even if you do need to bring an umbrella just in case, you'll splash in the puddles regardless.

Lotion: Tree Hut Lotus Water is a juicy, refreshing watery scent. Super lightweight it sinks into the skin easily and has a light scent that plays beautifully in crisp air.

Perfume: Miu Miu L’eau Bleue is a crisp aquatic floral that smells like new beginnings. It’s a little sharp with its white florals but that adds to its uplifting nature as it has a nice greenness to round it out and keep it dewy. Perfectly fit for an optimistic young woman, 

The Spring Dream:

The girl waiting for a warm sun to blanket her cool breezes, the Spring Dream is hungry for something lighter to sate their appetite. A subtle sweetness with a calming earthy base, there’s nothing like strawberry mochi and cup of iced green tea on your daily walk.

Lotion: Eos Strawberry Dream brings some coziness and softness to the skin. making for a wonderfully sweet base to build on.

Perfume: D’annam Strawberry Mochi is a gourmand for people whose highest compliment for a dessert is “its not too sweet”. It balances well with the lotion as it avoids becoming a cloying, sugary mess. The strawberry is subtle and the powdery almost savory combo of red bean paste and rice gives it a unique scent.

Perfume Oil: Beyondscents Green Tea oil is subtle and refreshing. Not just a straight green tea scent, it combines bergamot, mandarin, asian peony and musk for the perfect amount of earthiness to tie the whole scent together.

The Earth Sprite:

This girl really thrives during the spring. But not the bright crisp spring days; it’s the April showers she loves. A rolling storm allows her to enjoy the quieter moments: smoking a joint, eating warm soup and dancing to her cd player. Maybe she’ll paint, maybe she’ll create a new avant garde hairstyle, maybe she’ll just enjoy the day.

Lotion: Mill Creek botanicals Lemongrass lotion is a refreshing scent that instantly brightens the mood. It leans more herby and citrusy than sweet but is still a very pleasant scent.

Perfume: D’annam Pho Breakfast is less of an umami broth smell and more of the crisp fresh toppings. The cilantro, the ginger, the spices all combine to make a fresh herbal scent that truly is reminiscent of pho, balancing savory and aromatic with fresh and clean. If you love the way the tips of your fingers smell after garnishing you pho this is for you.

Perfume Oil: Beyondscents Lemon Verbana accomplishes much of what the lotion does being a bright zingy scent that marries everything together.

The Green Goddess

The Earth Sprite’s sister, she’s a little softer. If the former is the thunderstorm then the Green Goddess is the dewy lush earth after. Stretching her limbs in the humid air as the temperature raises enough for a sweet treat or a cold drink. She’s more playful, and a touch sweeter but still grounded.

Lotion: By/Rosie Jane Dulce Body Milk is a creamy sweet lotion that avoids stickiness but is still very rich and to me genuinely smells like sweetened condensed milk which to be fair can be a lot for some people.

Perfume: D'annam Matcha Soft Serve is not a sweet matcha scent, instead being a little more bitter and herbaceous which  think makes it a wonderful pairing for the lotion as it tempers the sweetness down and makes it lean towards more of an earthy and savory gourmands. That's not to say there's no sweetness as there's still milk and waffle cone notes, but the matcha here is more of a matcha powder dusted on top bringing it a great balance.

Perfume Oil: Sugarmilkco Oat Milk is a nutty, kinda powdery lactonic scent that doesn't lean too hard into sweetness but instead gives it a nice depth to create a refreshingly sweet scent.

The Naughty Naiad

As the earth de-thaws so does she. Crawling out of her tree stump coated in moss to bathe in a fresh algae covered pond and run through the forest bare nude with the rest of her sisters.

Lotion: Method Daily zen is bright and refreshing. Perfect to step into the new season with as it brings a sense of calm and peace befitting its name.

Perfume: Alberta Ferreti Femina is a dewy watery green floral that's complex in ways lots of modern florals are not. It's ahead of it's time with it's watermelon It's rich flowers floating on a pond. A young naiad, freshly formed and eager to explore once she grows pasts her lazier aptitude.

Perfume Oil: Beyondscents jasmine oil are the flowers adorning her hair. A headier scent floating around and grounding the waterier florals to give her a more sensual edge that makes you fall in love.

Mississippi Queen

A blooming magnolia in the hazy southern heat. She's sweet, refreshing and intoxicating enough to give you a little buzz. It's just on the edge of gourmand. A cocktail after church, with white flowers still staining your wrists.

Lotion: Native Eucalyptus & Mint is a wakeup call. It's stimulating scent sinks into the skin and seems to awaken all your senses from the inside out.

Perfume: Imaginary Authors Saint Julep is exactly how it sounds. A boozy, crisp mint julep on a hot summer day both refreshing and tempting with its soft hint of sweetness. A little sin at the end of the day.

Perfume Oil: Bourbon French Perfumes' Perfume of Paradise is a lush, heady bouquet of white florals. It truly blooms when the skin is damp with sweat or on an overcast day. Truly intoxicating with its sensual aroma.

I'm Still a Slut for Animalics: Young Hussies

 

We're gonna break away from the old girls (affectionate, reverent) and we're gonna meet the new hussies. These animalics are created with synthetic animal notes or by replicating it with non animal scents like cumin. Don't sleep on these, as they're staying strong in a wave of florals and gourmands.

(2006) Kicking off this century we have Putain Des Palaces by ELDO, another perfume for whores (it's name translates to palace whore) and its made to envoke a whore's boudoir: lace, powder, skin musk. Her nightly routine. It's a sensuous fantasy, and it's powdery notes make her delicate, and demure underneath the seduction.

(2012) Mad Madam by JHAG is a very carnal rose. Wwell its not just the rose, but the whole bush thorns and all. It's like you stumbled out scratched and a little bloodied after an ill-fated idea to take a tumble. It has a nice greenness to it, very sexy and luscious. It's dirty earthiness gives it an edge over other roses.

(2015) Here we have Salome by Papillon Artisan Perfumes, and this is a raunchy girl befitting her name. To many this smells like straight up sex, or at the very least how you smell after having sex and you put on a fur coat instead of a robe. The florals come in and give it a bit of class but not much. It's dry and sweaty and honestly? A little perverse. An animalic very much in the vein of her foremothers.

(2017) You thought I wouldn't add another scent by the modern Queen of Animalics?? Well this time we're venturing into Under My Skin by Francesca Bianchi. This is sensual, warm, and completely fits its name with its skin-like scent. This isn't clean skin but it isn't dirty skin either, this is the human smell of your body after it's sweated in the warm sun. Blends well and and settles smoothly like all her other creations.

(2021) Now in this decade we have Rosenrot Intense, created by the metal band Rammstein. This perfume is odd in a good way, it's animalic by way of a tiger with a bloodied face after a feast. But dont be too scared of the blood note, it's really not that prominent I just like exaggerating. I'd say the incense note is more prominent, making this more of a smoky animalic rose with a slight metallic undercurrant.

(2024) Les Cahiers Secrets is a perfume with a backstory catered to me. The brand Jouissance based it's scents on female erotica writers, and this one in particular is based on Anais Nin. It's another powdery skin scent, and I don't mean skin scent as in close and soft, but in that it mimics skin. It's slightly sweaty, and the mid notes give it a makeupy scent. Perfect for banging out smut for a dollar a page.

(2024) I'm not gonna lie and say Black Dog by d.grayi is easy (or well...good) but it's interesting. The durian note makes it a rough opener and as someone unfamiliar with the fruit I gagged a bit, but it settles into something darker, more mysterious and a little gothic as the licorice and animalic notes of the base come out. I'd be scared of this one, but intrigued.

(2024) Lastly we have Super Sexy Skunk, another rough go from d.grayi but also very interesting! It's cannabis notes are potent, and that's where the skunk widely comes from. But it's almost nostalgic like being in the back of a nissan altima smoking weed way too young. It truly is super sexy, and also very dangerous with its oud and animal notes. even the chocolate gives it some edge.

My Skin but Nothing - 'Clean' smelling perfumes and the allure of conformity

 Nowadays it seems like everyone is afraid to take up space. From loudly defending the right to be like everyone else to videos of influencers in the same white-beige uniform, it's like there's a war on individuality. And this isn't about people who share common ground, no this is about those who flood someone's comments asking where they got their straight leg jeans from so they can have their exact pair. Proclaiming to be just like other girls has shifted from a sense of camaraderie amongst young women, pushing back against misogynistic mocking to a rallying cry for conformity. If you don't like the same music, same clothes, same perfume and same colors as this narrow definition of a "girl" well now you'll be cast aside and looked down upon.

I'm not the first to say that this is a symbol of a rise of fascism. Tiktok's like this give an insight to something everyone is noticing, the masses are becoming more homogenous than ever, which makes them easier to control.

You may be wondering what that has to do with perfume?

Well, quite a bit actually!

Once upon a time "skin scents" were just perfumes without large projection. They were intimate, sat close to skin, but they weren't necessarily soft. A spicy or*ental (outdated term, but more accurately describes what I'm thinking of more than 'amber') could settle into a skin scent before long. But now, skin scents are used to describe ambroxan heavy, barely there perfumes.

If you have no idea what an ambroxan heavy perfume is, look no further than Glossier 'You', the shining star of this scent category. Glossier 'You' rose in popularity during the 2020 pandemic (although the pandemic is very much still happening), alongside the rise of "clean girl" and it makes sense. During a time filled with sickness, people were looking to be almost sterilized, their visual appearance a marker of clean health as anxieties rose. So it's no wonder a perfume that smells like nothing took the girls by storm. There was nothing messy about it, it was reminiscent of clean, washed skin. Not soapy however, that's a different category that holds perfumes such as Replica's 'Bubble Bath'.

The popularity of 'my skin but nothing' perfumes have only increased. Molecule 01, JHAG Not a Perfume, the Glossier 'You' flankers. All marketing themselves as smelling different on every body and "enhancing pheromones" but there's a problem.

They all smell the same.

And not in the traditional designer perfumes all being a vague fruity-floral-amber mess but in that the marketing is only telling half the story. Sure they smell different to an extent as everyone's skin brings out different aspects but for the most part they smell of the same musky-ambery nothingness. Theres a falsity to its promises. 'Buy this perfume that smells like nothing and you'll be a unique individual with little effort.' It's blandness is a comfort in a way, as people can pretend to be unique as they only make a whisper in a crowd. 

It calls back to this image.

Each person here thinks they're a unique individual, only to be met with the startling reality of their own conformity. When you wear 'You' or 'Not a Perfume', you can buy into its claims of smelling unique on each person. Until you smell it on someone else and you realize 'huh, that's kind of familiar'. There's no risk involved, no trial and error of finding a perfume that embodies your personality and style. No risk of not liking something or even coming across unlikable yourself.

There's no thick jasmine of Mugler 'Alien', no swampy green of Cacharel 'Eden', and definitely no rich cherry-leather smell of Room 1015 'Cherry Punk'. For many, being an individual is out, there's no reason to interrogate yourself and your interests if you can't be picked out of a crowd.

This isn't the same as office-friendly scents, which are just perfumes you can wear that smell pleasant without choking everyone in your cramped space out. This is the appeal of nothingness. Of fitting in but convincing yourself that you're really different while also not making any efforts to make a real impression.

There's a contradiction involved, as with anything. People are no longer proud to step outside the box and if they do? Well they just copy. There's an insecurity involved in not wanting to be the first person to stand out so instead you copy someone else and hope the momentum that propelled them works for them as well.

Maybe that's why 'clean' smelling perfumes have evolved from being a symbol of health to a symbol of sameness. As you hop from clean girl to coastal grandma to tomato girl every few months there's no need to really find something that represents you.

You don't know who you are.

Love is in the Air: Venus - Nui Cobalt Designs

 

This current formulation is currently in the process of being reformulated so I admittedly jumped at the chance to try the original. It has this powdery, heady quality I find I love in indie scents.

The scent profile fully matches its name. It's sensual but not overtly so. Reminds me of a boudoir or an opium den, maybe both. Its richly and densely floral in a way thats almost fuzzy, very reminiscent of sticking your head into a bouquet of flowers or even the whole bush, just to come out dizzy with petals sticking to your face and hair. I truly believe this would be beautiful mixed into an unscented lotion. 

100% a white floral, yet it doesn't have that skankiness nor is it too prim and proper. It balances the Madonna-Whore perfectly, it's Charlotte York in the trashy lingerie slip. I honestly pick up no vanilla or almond, if I had to guess I would say the shea and Queen Elizaneth (orris) root is what gives it that soft, fuzzy quality and prevents the florals from getting too sharp. It's also possibly why I think it would be great mixed into a lotion. That traditional *lavender* smell is also missing, you know the one. That dense almost green around the edges smell. Instead I'd say it takes a backseat, being more of a tickle. Rose is the clear star of the show here, not a fresh rose, and not a jammy one either. Purely a powdered rode, but not in a dated way. The fact that these oils are also used for witchcraft makes sense, as it has an almost apothecary like scent. If you're creating a love spell (God forbid) this is what you would anoint yourself in.

It's innocently seductive, wearing it around your crush may send them into a tizzy.

Because it's an oil it's quite potent, projects nicely and creates a scent bubble but when applied carefully Its not overpowering. just intoxicating. Use with caution.

Babys to Boudoirs: The Beauty of Powdery Perfumes Part Two

Continuing our foray into powdery scents, we'll explore some hidden gems. These perfumes are not the most popular sans one of them, she's the exeption. The rest are perfumes that flew under the radar even during their prime, often found at bargain stores or mysteriously appearing on your mother's vanity one day.

Teite de Neige is a more elegant powder, she's the beloved choir girl, the star of the show and the opening act. Super luxurious, and leans more vintage without being dated. Old hollywood glamour in a bottle.

Ciel is another 'baby' baby powder. It's sweet and vanilla with a powdery dry down and conjures up images of girlish innocence. A great after bath scent that makes you feel clean and cozy.

Not Your Baby lives up to its name, this is a powder that wants to be more assertive but still has some of its childish dreams. The muskiness is warmer, likely due to the cardamom and sandalwood, making it a little more sultry and clings to the skin for a decent amount of time.

Une Histoire de Femme Sensuelle is a creamier scent. The scent leans more towards lotion under freshly powdered skin and brings to mind both nivea cream and baby powder all at the same time. It's something you wear when you just want to smell good and maybe roll around in freshly laundered sheets.

I'm Still a Slut for Animalics: Old Heauxs

 

I'm back with more! As we enter a new year, I've realized nothing will ever top my love of animalics. To me this is the peak of femininity--not florals or gourmands, but the raw sex appeal of this perfume category embodies every thing I want to be. And this time I'm upping the ante. We're moving away from softer musks and honey notes, instead we're going full blown sweaty and skanky with cumin, castoreum and civet. These are difficult and they're supposed to be. So to make things more interesting we're gonna explore older, vintage animalics versus newer animalics and see how they differ and compare.


Vintage animalics are notable for their use of animal products. The practice has been thankfully discontinued but I can't lie and say I don't smell the difference. They were richer, dirtier and overall more potent. Therefore if you want the full experience i recommend Ebay, Facebook Marketplace, Vinted and estate sales for older bottles.


To start, we're rummaging around your Grandma's closet to meet some of these Old Heauxs.

(1932) The oldest on the list, Tabu was beloved by old Hollyword stars for its sultry, spicy ultra-feminine scent. Crafted by perfumer Jean Carles, he was reportedly given the scandalous instructions to make a perfume for "whores" and that he did! It's lush and rich, projecting far and making an appearence before you step into the room. A favorite of Dorothy Dandridge it's no surprise this was favored by many a screen siren. However I suggest you look on Ebay for vintage versions as they're easy to come by and aren't too expensive. The new reformulations just don't cut it!

(1944) Femme Rochas is next, this scent was famously worn by Mae West and its shapely bottle matches her figure perfectly. The peach mimics soft, warm skin and its spiciness adds depth and sensuality. A perfume that makes you want to wear nothing else. While vintage bottles are best, the modern reformulations are also lovely.

(1944) Another 40s creation, Bandit isn't as favored as Fracas (notably worn by stars like Madonna) as it's more androgynous, edgy and quite frankly tough. Perfect for Marlene Dietrich who was known for her transgressive roles and star power. Bandit is a vetiver forward fragrance with a rich leather and civet drydown. This isn't for the frivolous type. If you wear this you're on top.

(1962) Bal à Versailles is extremely animalic. Deep, spicy and resinous it's a highly polarizing scent. The powdery notes are either cloying or comforting, and this is one where all reformulations are pretty good, but there's enough differences where some prefer one over the others. As vintage as it gets and not for the faint of heart.


As we say goodbye to these jezebels, we will make our way down to meet some young hussies. They may wear faux fur instead of a real mink but don't count them out. They're as sensual as their foremothers and just as daring, even if the seduce with a bit more coy flirtation over a vulgar innuendo.

Looks That Kill: Bambi Fawn

 

Bambi Fawn Makeup

There’s something sweet and beguiling about this look. Wide eyes framed by fluttery lashes and lots of soft warm brown tones. Perfect for fall, here’s how to look like a soft fawn playing in the fallen leaves.

Base: Truly the key to it all is the base. The skin should be mostly matte with a few strategically placed elements of shine. Light to medium coverage is preferred. Brightening concealer should be under the eyes but don't go for the shocking bright thats popular now, instead only go about one or half a shade lighter and blend. I also recommend light underpainting with a bronzer at the temples, forehead and very lightly on the bridge of the nose for an autumnal sun baked look. Cream bronzer is the way to go.

Face: Keep it very simple. A terracotta, orange or straight up brown blush works best. Apply under the eyes up slightly to the temples but keep a light hand. This look calls for more of a tanned flush than a high beam of color. Try Fenty Cheeks Out Cream Blush 'Rose Latte' or Patrick Ta Double Take Blush Duo ' She's Blushing'

Brows: Keep them as natural as possible, but groomed. Tame them with a brow gel, and this look really gives that wide eyed look if the brows are thinner and farther apart with a slight highlight underneath them. Try not to make them too dark but they don't have to be pale either. Try Benefit Gimme Brow+

Eyes: You want them big and open. Line your upper lid with a soft brown, just darker than your skin tone and also line the lower lash line. Then take a nude (not white) pencil and line the waterline focusing on the inner corner. Nyx Vivid Rich Mechanical Eyeliner Pencil 'Under the Moonstone' & 'Quartz Queen'. Then layer lots of mascara, brown preferably for a softer look, Go for something lengthening like BADgal BANG! Volumizing Mascara.

Lips: If you hate lip liner this is truly the look for you. While you can still wear one if you prefer this look shines best without one. For those with darker skin and lips, go for a soft brownish nude. Try not to go darker than your skin tone as it should be your lips but better. Satin and matte finishes work best, just try not to go too glossy. The best shades are MAC 'Hug Me', 'I Deserve This' & 'Can't Dull My Shine'. Along with Sephora Cream Lip Stain 'Chocolate Lover' and Fenty Gloss Bomb Stix High-Shine Gloss Stick 'Hot Chocolit'